Words and photos by NeilPryde Epic Rider Adam Glendinning


Read the prologue.





I am in the Kaghan valley, in the northwest frontier province of Pakistan for the next two and a half weeks. The area is in the southern portion of the Himalayan Range, and provides a stunning backdrop for cycling.








For the first 3 days, we based ourselves in the mountain top village of Shogran. The village, whose name translates literally into “meadow in the sky”, is perched over 3,000 feet above the valley below at 7,900 feet. We stayed at Arcadian’s Sprucewoods hotel, and the friendly, helpful made the riders feel at home.


The first days ride served primarily to get the riders used to the local terrain, the altitude, and for the guides to gage the rider’s ability, and fitness. We left the hotel, and immediately joined a jeep track that wound its way clockwise around the mountain towards Shinkara. The route was chosen as it afforded a variety of terrain, while avoiding any steep climbing, that would be the mainstay for many of the subsequent rides.





The day broke partly cloudy, but by the time we got pedals down, a light drizzle had started, and would be a feature throughout the ride. The alpine terrain, and large spruce trees reminded me of Canada’s Rocky mountains, it was only when we passed the occasional house, or shepherd, that one was reminded that we were cycling in the Karakorum mountains.


The track was in good condition, and only occasional rock falls interrupted the rolling terrain of the track. When one of the riders suffered the first puncture of the day, we took the chance to take in the wonderful surroundings. An elder stopped to chat while walking by, and asked where we here headed. When he heard we were headed to Shinkara, he warned that the streams were in danger of swelling owing to the rain, putting our return passage in danger.











We had crossed two streams on our route, and one was clearly increasing in volume, and a debate ensued as to how far to continue. The rain was showing no sign in abating, so the ride was cut short, and given the size of the streams on our return passage, this was undoubtedly the correct decision.


The second day of our stay in Shogran brought completely different weather. Gone were the mist-covered mountains, and rain, replaced by bright sun, and warm temperatures. Even at the mountaintop, temperatures were high in the 20’s. Our route for the day would take us from Shogran, down into the village of Kiwai, then follow the Kunhar River 7 km to the village of Paras.





At Paras, the route crossed the river, and began the ascent up the opposite side of the valley towards Bela Sacha. The bottom of the original road was washed away some years ago. As a result, the first 500 meters of the road is very steep, before you join the original road, and the road composition of loose sand, and rock, had us pushing our bikes up the slope. Once on the road proper, a long steady ascent above the valley began. The west side of the valley lacked the spruce forest coverage that we had enjoyed the day before, but offered uninterrupted stunning views up and down the valley.








After climbing for close to 2,500 feet, we stopped for a well-earned lunch consisting of granola bars, and bananas, before starting the descent back to Paras. The group suffered a rash of punctures on the descent, owing to the sharp rocks that make up the road. The final climb from Paras, to Kiwai, and then up to Shogran is under 14 km, but rises over 4,500 feet, with the climb from Kiwai relentless, making a tough, but rewarding end to the days ride. After close to 5 hours riding, it was welcome to be back in the cool, fresh air at Shogran, and a large plate of pasta made all effort all worth it.








For our final day in Shogran, we climbed from Shogran to 3,070 meters, up to the alpine meadows that give Shogran its name. The route would form the final part of the last stage of the Tour of the Himalayas, being held later in the month. The jeep track climbs the 570 meters from Shogran to the meadows in 7 km, and offers a variety of terrain from sand and gravel, loose rocks, to mud, and one can feel the effects of the altitude begin make its mark, as you climb the steep road.
At the top the views North and West towards the Black mountains made a nice culmination for the first three days riding in Pakistan.




For more information please visit the official website:
www.kmt.org.pk