The bike crests the top of the climb, and I slowly freewheel, letting gravity pull me down the other side. Sweat pours off my forehead from the effort, compounded by the warm, humid weather. Slowly at first, then ever more quickly, the twists and turns of the descent approach. Confident of the bike below me, left, right, then left again through the corners. I resist the temptation to touch the brakes, letting the speed build a little more, relishing the welcome breeze in my face. The occasional clearing in the trees gives me a glimpse of the valley below, coming ever closer as I descend.
The sounds of the forest, birds, small animals, and babbling sound of streams are soon lost to me, drowned out by the air rushing through my helmet, but my eyes continue to take in the ever changing environment. To the left the lush forest, dark and dense, and to the right steep drops down to the valley, as towns below come into focus to me. The next corner looms rapidly. Hairpin, or sweeper? Brake or let the bike free? Confident, I leave the braking late, a gentle pull of the front brake, as I roll the bike into the tight right bend, across a bridge, then another tight turn. My right knee reaches to the inside of the turn, I clip the double apex at either end of the bridge, careful not to come too close to the stone retaining wall.
I can’t resist a smile. The suffering, and lactic acid of the climb are a distant memory, replaced by the exhilaration, and anticipation of the next corner.
The forest gives way to first one, then another, then a constant stream of fruit orchards, and the occasional villa, perched on the side of the hill. A scooter flashes by the opposite direction. At the bottom of the hill, lies a village, and I flash through on the main street, waving at children playing across the street…
I have ridden my bike in all manner of places, from Tuscany, to Provence, to the downs of England, and the scene I just described could have taken places in any of those. But in fact it took place last week in Pulau Pinang!?!
Pulau Pinang, or Penang as it is more commonly known, conjures up many images. Sun drenched beaches, eclectic local cuisine, colonial architecture, and an area steeped in history, but as a cycling destination…?! Not something that typically comes to mind.
Penang, is a 293 sq km island located off the north west coast of Malaysia in the Straits of Melaka. Roughly rectangular in shape, it measures 19 km wide, and 26 km long, and features a prominent granite spine that runs north-south, rising to 833 meters at its highest point, Western hill.
As our aircraft approaches Penang, we are afforded an unobstructed view of the island. Easily visible is the sandy beaches stretching along the breadth of the north coast. Georgetown envelops the north east coast, stretching, south to the airport. As one scans further to the west, the central highlands rise from the coastal plain, with a lush and rich jungle. However the highlands block and view further to the west. It is only when the aircraft turns to land on Penang’s single runway, a quick glance to the north west affords the first view of the western coastal plain. Clearly larger than the coastal area to the east, it is a tantalizingly short glimpse, and beckons one to explore further…
Landing at Penang’s International Airport, the initial impression one receives on the 30-minute drive to the regions capital, Georgetown, does not inspire one with images rich in cycling. The east side of the island is busy, and chaotic. The majority of the islands roughly 800,000 inhabitants live on the east side of the island, between the airport, and Georgetown, and hemmed in by the central spine of the island, has lead to urban congestion.
The drive to Georgetown is hectic. Cars, scooters, and buses use every piece of road. Traffic makings are a futile attempt to impose order, where none seems to exist.
But despair not. The first glimmer of what beckons to the west side of the island is encountered on the road from Georgetown to the resort area of Batu Feringgi, along the north coast. The sinuous road twists and turns, as it struggles to follow the coastline. Still a busy, and well-traveled road, once beyond the proliferation of resort hotels, and restaurants, a markedly different island reveals itself, and rewards those who make the effort. Left behind is the urban hustle and bustle, typical of a modern, growing city, suffering the usual growing pains associated. Traffic, congestion, pollution, lagging urban infrastructure are distant memories, and are replaced by clear air, open roads, fruit, and palm orchards, traditional rural, and fishing Kampungs (villages), and forest reserves, where the biggest traffic hazard is school children riding their bicycles to and from school. Rural Penang does not disappoint.
What lies, figuratively, and literally to the west side of the island is a throwback to a less hurried existence. Riding through rural villages, school children point and wave as I pass, calling out a friendly greeting. Scooters slow perceptibly as they pass, giving a casual nod in acknowledgement, and cars are patient in passing on the narrow, twisting roads.
The modern development seen as Georgetown grows is replaced by traditional Malay kampungs (villages), many still featuring traditional architecture, with the houses build on stilts, and large floor to ceiling shuttered windows.
We arrived in Penang late in the afternoon, and spent the first evening staying in Georgetown. All the better to sample Penang’s renowned outdoor hawker food stalls. No visit to Penang would be complete with out sampling the mixed satays, and the like. Hokkien mee, Penang Laksa, and Popia. All washed down with a large Tiger beer.
Owing to its geographical position, Penang has been a historical crossroads of different cultures for centuries. The indigenous Malay culture has been infused with influence from the British, Portuguese, and Dutch during colonial times, plus Chinese, and Indian immigration over the centuries.
All have had an influence in shaping Malay culture, and today we are fortunate to be the beneficiary of this diverse mixture in cultures, and one of the best ways to experience this is in the local cuisine. The best place to sample this is at the outdoor hawker stalls.
We stayed in downtown Georgetown one night, before moving up to Batu Ferringhi for the next two days. This makes an ideal area to base ones self, both for cycling, and accessing the beaches.
Owing to its location just north of the equator, even in October, the day time temperatures can climb above 30 degrees C, so I was sure to top of both my water bottles before setting out. That said, access to cool drinks out on the road is never a problem.
The first few km’s of the ride from Batu Ferringhi to Teluk Bahang is along the coastal beaches, and makes a nice warm up, and invites one to not rush, but rather take in the vistas. Approaching Teluk Bahang, there in a roundabout, and rather than continuing on straight into the village proper, I make a 90 degree turn to the left and head south.
The superb road conditions continue for another 2 km’s. Flat, smooth, and wide roads, with a paved shoulder, the region seems tailor made for cycling. Riding is a real pleasure.
Soon, I arrived at the Teluk Bahang dam, Penang’s largest fresh water catchment, and site of the annual Penang International Dragon Boat Festival. The road pitches up, but only for a few hundred meters, serving to mark the end of the casual warm up, and the beginning of more serious cycling ahead. Upon reaching the elevation of the artificial lake, the road then meanders along its shore for a kilometer, before a quick descent, and then a long, 6 km shallow climb that ultimately leads to the south western part of the island. The climb itself seems to be a small insight into Penang itself. The attitude, and approach to life found on the island, particularly the rural portion, is reflected in the climb. At best a shallow climb, the road, as if following tightly the cartographers contour line drawn on a map, tightly following the terrain, seemingly without hurry to gain elevation. The result is a delight to ride, as what results is a series of tight turns, often linked without the thought of any straight road between.
This was my first outing on my new bike, a brand new offering from Neil Pryde, their Alize model, and it was delightfully suited to the terrain. Light, stiff, and very responsive to turning, without being nervous, the bike often made me wish for longer descents, all the more to enjoy the bike, and the road.
However care had to be taken at times, even in dry conditions, as many of the corners are off camber, and can be treacherous when wet.
700 meters from the top of the climb is a tropical fruit farm. Here all manner of tropical fruits are grown, and sold, as well as fruit juices. The short, steep approach is worth the effort when sipping a fresh glass of kiwi fruit juice, while on the way home.
I have often found it difficult, when overseas, to keep stocked with sufficient food for the rides. The supply of granola bars / Fig Newton’s, etc never seems to go far enough, and hotel supplied fresh fruit is at best unpredictable. However, Penang offers a wonderful solution. Soon after commencing the descent south bound lies not one, but two roadside fruit stands, that have all manner of fresh, local, and delectable fruits. The local bananas in particular are not to be missed. Having only had a light breakfast, and feeling a tad peckish, I stuffed my jersey pockets full of fruit. Worth the ride alone!
Once onto the flat, coastal plain, one passes through a series of rural kampungs on the way to the central town of Balik Pulau. This is the second largest population center, after Georgetown, and serves the western half of the island. From here, most major roads in western Penang converge, and there are a variety of options for cycling routes. To the east lie the central highlands, accessible by 3 different passes, plus all manner of routes amongst the coastal lowlands.
After the mornings rides, a relaxing afternoon beckons on the beaches. All cyclists have a soft spot for Italian food, and here too, Penang does not disappoint. Across from our hotel the Shangri La Rasa Sayang we were delighted to find ‘Mario’s’, an appropriately named Italian restaurant.The New Zealand mussels in particular are wonderful, and the pasta is fresh. “The best cappuccino in town”, follows, we could find no fault in the food, nor the hospitality.
Although not big enough to support a cycling only holiday, in conjunction with a relaxing sandy vacation, it would be a mistake to leave the bike at home. Penang offers much to those that make the extra effort.